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Review: NORQAIN Freedom 60 39 Cream in Bronze Automatic Watch

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Review: NORQAIN Freedom 60 39 Cream in Bronze Automatic Watch

Post by TheJohnP »

INTRODUCTION:

During this year's virtual Micro Lux watch event, I made contact with the Managing Director US for NORQAIN. Mentioned our site and that we're looking to expand our watch reviews and he offered an opportunity to review one of their pieces. I made a request for one of their newly launched Freedom 60 39 models, as they were more in my comfort zone of 39mm. Took a little bit for him to acquire one for me to borrow, but he did follow through and here we are.

NORQAIN is a fully independent, family-owned Swiss watch company founded in 2018 and led by CEO and founder Ben Küffer, his father Marc Küffer, NHL Stanley Cup winner and Swiss hockey legend Mark Streit, and Ted Schneider. And unlike most newly launched brands, NORQAIN has quickly established a strong AD retailer network across the globe in addition to online sales. Also to set themselves apart, they recently introduced two Manufacture Calibres produced in collaboration with movement manufacturer, Kenissi (Tudor, Chanel, & Breitling). They also offer a standard four-year international warranty, which can be extended to five years when the customer joins the NORQAINER Club within one month of their purchase.

To get a full sense of the watch, I wore it for a week and gave it a rest for a day to test out the power reserve. Since watch was on loan, inquired if I could swap out straps. They preferred I didn't, so no versatility test this time.

PRODUCT OVERVIEW:

For the Freedom 60 39 collection, the distinguishing features are the incredibly beautiful design elements – starting with the vintage straps with the unique “NORQAIN stitches,” followed by the box-type sapphire glass with its origin in the 60s and the reduced dial with hand-applied indexes. The two variations of the classic 39mm Freedom 60 three-hand model are available with an anthracite dial and steel case or with a cream dial and bronze case.

The bronze variation is distinguished by a yellow shade, which makes it different from the rose-tinged bronze that is more commonly seen. The NORQAIN Plate on the left side of the case is also bronze and ready to be personalized. Additionally, the pin clasp of the watch’s Norlando leather strap matches the case and the caseback is steel with a PVD bronze treatment.

SPECIFICS:

NORQAIN Freedom 60 39 Cream
Reference: NNZ2001ZA/C206/18EO.16Z

https://www.norqain.com/watches/freedom-60-39-cream/

- Cost is $2,990
- Case: Polished, satin bronze
- Dial: Domed cream dial with faceted bronze hands
- Diameter: 39mm, 39.5mm including NORQAIN plate
- Lug to lug: 48mm
- Height: about 12mm
- Lug width: 18mm
- Crystal: Box sapphire with double AR coating
- Movement: NORQAIN Manufacture Calibre NN20/1
- Crown: Screw down
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Strap: Norlando leather strap with characteristic “NORQAIN stitches,” resembling mountain tops at the lugs

FIRST IMPRESSIONS:

The watch came in a slightly larger than standard outer box, with a more robust inner box featuring the NORQAIN plate on the top. Which I felt was a nice touch mirroring one of their design aspects. There was no papers or manuals, but since a loaner, wasn't really expecting the full kit.

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The watch has a strong vintage watch aesthetic without trying too hard to have one. The overall finishing is a satin/brushed but with a few chamfered edges to catch light. The dial is clean and uncluttered. The hour indices are applied with a printed minute track featuring 60 markers along the outer edge. The only other printing on the dial are the NORQAIN double "N" logo, NORQAIN, Chronometer, and Swiss Made.

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The dial looks matte, which is a nice departure from the recent trend of sunburst, fume, and overt texturing. That smooth cream color almost lets the indices and hands seem to float on the surface and helps to improve legibility. The printing looks to be crisp, even under a loupe.

The bronze hands are polished in a way that they appear dark from one angle, or glow from another. The indices also can appear flat, but they have a dimension which can also catch the light with a square of lume along the bottom edge of each one. The syringe hands look to have an appropriate length with the hour hand nearly touching the bottom of the lume squares and minute and second hand reaching near the edge of the outer minute track.

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The case is really set off by the box sapphire crystal, which helps establish the vintage vibe of the piece. The bronze of the case also completes the vintage look with an old watch that has seen age. The eventual patina will only reinforce that aesthetic. The satin finish also helps keep it looking vintage, as polished surfaces would make it too "blingy." There are a few edges on the case that do catch light and catch the eye. For instance, the lugs have a nice chamfered edge that narrows and widens as it follows the downward curve of the lugs. The crown is screw down, which will please many. The ridges are set apart nicely to get a good grip while unscrewing, setting, and/or winding.

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The side of the case features the NORQAIN plate, which I imagine is one of the more polarizing design aspects. As watches are often bought and given to commemorate important dates, life events, and such, the plate offers the opportunity to have that information personalized on the side of the case, instead of hidden on the caseback. My review model had NORQAIN engraved on the plate, which I'll admit did come across a little like the side of many Invicta watches. Not the best association, unfortunately.

As I've never felt the need to engrave a watch, the plate doesn't particularly hold any appeal to me. And I know there's not an option to remove the plate. So if it were my watch, I imagine I'd keep it blank instead of choosing an engraving.

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The strap is fantastic. Has a nice thickness, yet supple. Smells amazing. The stiches at the top, towards the lugs are another design element to associate with the Swiss mountains where NORQAIN is based. I don't have an opinion either way on the stitching, but the color matches the dial nicely and the brown leather works to bring the whole watch together.

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I've delayed long enough. Let's get to the meat of this review and what sets NORQAIN apart from their peers...the movement. NORQAIN entered into a partnership with Kenissi, who makes movements for Tudor, Chanel, and Breitling. Have to imagine that the Küffer family has some deep and strong connections to establish a relationship with the new movement manufacturer with their new brand.

The movement on this Freedom 60 39 is the Manufacture Calibre NN20/1, which is chronometer certified (as listed on the dial). The movement has 27 jewels, vibrates at 28,800, and a power reserve of 70 hours.

NORQAIN says "the NN20/1 is being produced by Kenissi exclusively for us." If this movement is exclusive to their brand, it looks remarkably like the Tudor MT5402. So is a modification of the Tudor movement enough to call it a Manufacture Calibre? I'd say other brands have done more with less.

The only issue I found with the Freedom 60 39 was in accuracy of the movement in the model I wore. The first day it had lost about 7 seconds. So gave it a full wind and next day it improved to -5 sec. Then for the remainder of the week, it averaged just over -6 seconds per day. Which I believe falls just outside of COSC specs. Honestly, accuracy isn't an important factor to me. But if you're going to buy this watch, for this movement, being a chronometer, I would've liked to have seen slightly better numbers.

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The other things I know folks like to look for in their watches is lume. Because of the vintage design, this uses an "old radium" Super Luminova on the bottom of the indices and the hands.

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After roughly 20-25 minute dog walk:

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VERSATILITY TEST

Again, NORQAIN preferred that I didn't swap straps, so here's some real world wrist shots instead.
But with the cream dial and bronze case, I imagine it will pair nicely with lots of different straps.

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SUMMARY:

- I really enjoyed my week with the Freedom 60 39 Cream.
- It looked like a vintage watch, but had the robust specs of a modern sports watch. So basically hit my sweet spot dead center.
- Lume lasts a good while. I used my "dog walk test," which means I charged the lume for a minute and took my dog on a roughly 20 minute walk. It was still glowing fairly well once I got back inside the house. I'd give it a solid B rating.
- Size and weight felt balanced on the wrist.
- Strap was thick, but not too thick and not stiff in the least.
- This was also my first experience with a bronze watch. Normally never liked the looks of them, but worked for the NORQAIN. It would be interesting to see how the patina over time will add to the vintage character of the watch.

PRO:
- Lovely watch and feels well made all around.
- You're not getting a run of the mill "heritage" retread, instead it takes the vintage inspiration and modernizes it just right.
- 39mm is a fantastic size and looks great on my wrist. Couldn't imagine I would enjoy their 42mm sized offerings.
- No date on the dial. BONUS POINTS!!!
- Loved the smell of that leather strap.
- Lume is really good
- I like what NORQAIN is doing overall and that they're forging their own path. A brand to keep on as they continue to grow and develop.

CON:
- The cost seems a tad high for what you're getting. Then again, I really don't have much experience with watches in this price point, so I can't say that for certain.
- But I will say that at $3k, you can easily get a Tudor with a Kenissi movement, instead of a relatively new brand.
- Speaking of a relatively new brand, not having "heritage" takes them out of consideration for many. Granted they seem to be run by a smart and connected team who are establishing and positioning themselves very well in their short history.
- The movement could've performed better, though not a horrible accuracy average.
- Bronze will keep some folks away. The popularity of bronze isn't what it used to be. So the steel model may appeal to more buyers.

WOULD I BUY THIS?

No

Would I want to buy this? Well, YES.

I'm not going to pretend here. I can't mentally picture buying a watch over $1,000. So a $3k watch isn't even a glimmer of a possibility.
But if I could actually be comfortable putting down that kind of scratch on a watch, I could see myself with this watch in my collection.

For now though, it's a no for me.
For YOU, I would recommend the NORQAIN Freedom 60 39 Cream.
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Re: Review: NORQAIN Freedom 60 39 Cream in Bronze Automatic Watch

Post by MoT »

Great review.

Definitely an interesting entry, with some polarizing design aspects. However, it is fun to see watches that buck trends (once you get passed the bronze.)
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Re: Review: NORQAIN Freedom 60 39 Cream in Bronze Automatic Watch

Post by ivo p »

Thanks for sharing the experience.
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Re: Review: NORQAIN Freedom 60 39 Cream in Bronze Automatic Watch

Post by Stretch44 »

Great write up. Sure is a looker.
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Re: Review: NORQAIN Freedom 60 39 Cream in Bronze Automatic Watch

Post by Split-Time »

I have been looking forward to your thoughts and you did not disappoint [mention]TheJohnP[/mention]! What a comprehensive and honest review.. Thanks to NORQAIN for providing the piece.
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Re: Review: NORQAIN Freedom 60 39 Cream in Bronze Automatic Watch

Post by Conchita Turtle »

The definition of "Manufacture" can be very elastic, and a regular source of Byzantine forum discussions. That caliber is provided by a third party, on the one hand.On the other hand, I have some small brand manufacture calibers (Ward, Constant/Alpina, Eterna, Vulcain, Raketa... and maybe the most interesting of all, Horage), and I don't know if in a few years there will be spare parts or assistance for them, which I would have no doubt if there is Tud... Rolex behind. I also find it refreshing that, in watches of that price, the ubiquitous ETA/Sellita are not used, unlike most watches at this price tag.

Besides, I find it curious that the bronze comes out from diver type watches, to watches more to dress. Here I am more traditional, and I would prefer steel.
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Re: Review: NORQAIN Freedom 60 39 Cream in Bronze Automatic Watch

Post by TheJohnP »

Conchita Turtle wrote: Sat Dec 12, 2020 7:55 pm The definition of "Manufacture" can be very elastic, and a regular source of Byzantine forum discussions. That caliber is provided by a third party, on the one hand.On the other hand, I have some small brand manufacture calibers (Ward, Constant/Alpina, Eterna, Vulcain, Raketa... and maybe the most interesting of all, Horage), and I don't know if in a few years there will be spare parts or assistance for them, which I would have no doubt if there is Tud... Rolex behind. I also find it refreshing that, in watches of that price, the ubiquitous ETA/Sellita are not used, unlike most watches at this price tag.

Besides, I find it curious that the bronze comes out from diver type watches, to watches more to dress. Here I am more traditional, and I would prefer steel.
The full quote from NORQAIN when I asked about the movement was: "To your question, yes, the NN20/1 is being produced by Kenissi exclusively for us, this is why we can call it a Manufacture Calibre."

So they use the term manufacture instead of "in-house," as they don't produce the movement.

And agree with you on preferring steel over bronze. But between the steel version of this watch and the bronze, the bronze really spoke to me. The steel just looks a little more ordinary in comparison.

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Far and wide I will find 'em and I ride 'em
Bricks and mortar get my licks just for kicks
AD or authorized I don't analyze
Retail, wholesale never fail
Online or offline, I find I don't redefine
Too big to fail or yard sale they all hale
Run or hide just for fun deals I find
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