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Haute Horlogerie Discussion

This is the place to learn all about watches and how they tick. Share your knowledge and how-tos with the rest of the class.
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sistem_32
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Watches that don't (necessarily) tell the time

Post by sistem_32 »

Strange as it may sound, there are several complications that deliberately obscure the time. They originate from different ideas, with varying degrees of "cuteness," but are ultimately all novelties. Franck Muller's version, deemed "Secret Hours," keeps the hour and minute hands (but not the seconds) still at the twelve until a pusher is activated, which causes the hands to spin to the correct time. When the pusher is released, the hands return to the twelve. Similar is their "Crazy Hours," which has the hour markings out of order on the dial. The hour hand jumps to the correct number with the change of the hour.
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Richard Mille makes another version of the "unreadable watch," their RM 63-01 "Dizzy Hands." In its usual state the hour markings, printed on a sapphire disc, slowly rotate counterclockwise. The hour hand also apparently spins at the wrong speed. When you press a pusher the markings and hand return to their normal positions.

I can appreciate the novelty of these pieces, but I must admit that the functionality is reduced just a bit too much for me. That's just a personal preference though: I'm sure their owners consider it a worthwhile tradeoff.
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Richard Mille RM 56-02

Post by sistem_32 »

While I'm on the subject of Richard Mille, I thought I'd write a few posts about their specialties. Richard Mille is a relatively young brand, founded in 1999. They're also a fairly "hip" brand, frequently collaborating with prominent sportsmen and the like. One of my favorite watches of theirs is the RM 56-02. It's a two-hander with a tourbillon, but the movement isn't the most interesting thing about it (you know a watch is special when a tourbillon looks like a minor feature). First of all, the case is made entirely of milled sapphire, creating a very striking (and, IMO, attractive) effect. This is also an impressive technical feat, as sapphire is notoriously difficult to machine. Some of the larger bridges on the movement are also made of sapphire.
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The other major feature setting the RM 56-02 apart is its unique "cable suspension mechanism" which suspends the movement via an 0.35mm cable from a titanium "ring'" fitted round the case. Richard Mille doesn't feel obliged to share with us the benefits of such a system, but I imagine it would considerably improve shock resistance (not that it would make much difference for a watch made of sapphire). Here you can see this cable and the tension indicator under the logo.
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I can't stop looking at this thing. There are good diverse pictures on the Richard Mille website, and a few wider pictures on Hodinkee's writeup.
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Re: Haute Horlogerie Discussion

Post by Dub Rubb »

Dude, you are absolutely blowing my mind with this thread! I am utterly amazed by these watches and am very appreciative of you posting them here. This stuff is mind boggling and absolutely incredible. I can't wait to share this thread with my dad.

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Re: Richard Mille RM 039

Post by sistem_32 »

The RM 039 is a remarkable watch in many ways, not least of which for having the busiest dial I've ever seen. The dial itself is made of sapphire, so the movement can be seen from the front; and it's a doozy. Here's RM's description and list of complications: "manual winding aviation tourbillon movement with E6-B flight computer, hours, minutes, seconds at 6 o’clock, UTC function, oversize date, flyback chronograph with central seconds and minutes counter and hours at 9 o’clock, countdown mode, function selector and power reserve indicator." Whoosh. It also implements what they call a "fast rotating barrel," which apparently takes five hours per revolution instead of the standard 7.5. RM claims that this "significantly diminishes" "periodic internal mainspring adhesion," in addition to providing an "excellent mainspring delta curve." I'll take their word for it.
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What a fantastic spectacle. The unfortunate conundrum of a piece like this (limited to 30 pieces) is that, most likely, nobody who could actually make use of all those complications will ever own one. Oh well. Its looks make up for what it lacks in functionality. Speaking of looks, ABTW has various good photos (if lackluster reporting) here, and here's a very fun and interesting "video report" on the watch (shot in an airplane!), in which the full compliment of complications are explained, along with the incredible crown function selection feature.

The more I look at this watch the more I like it. It's clearly an outstanding horological accomplishment, and it certainly makes no apologies. I think that what makes Richard Mille so likeable is their unabashed outlandishness, a brash declaration of independence from traditional watchmaking. This independent spirit is also visible in their 21st century production techniques and contemporary, unique styling. Truly a great brand.
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Richard Mille RM 020

Post by sistem_32 »

The last post in my Richard Mille series, though there are certainly plenty of other interesting models. The RM 020 pays tribute to the old days of horology. It's a pocket watch, but that's about all it shares in common with its aged brethren. First of all, it's constructed mostly of titanium with the baseplate made of "carbon nanofiber," lending it "high mechanical, physical and chemical stability in all directions." Functionally, this means that it maintains its shape under intense temperatures. Not a particularly useful function for a baseplate, but there you are. It has a power reserve of about ten days, thanks to two hand-wound barrels. The 020 is (as usual) equipped with a tourbillon, but keep in mind that this is a particularly functional one, as it's actually mounted in a pocket watch. Another eccentricity of the escapement is that it is equipped with a "zircon endstone." I take this to mean that instead of the usual synthetic ruby, the balance rides in zircon jewels, resulting in less friction and therefore a longer lifespan and more accurate timekeeping. Aesthetically, the watch is quite striking, with its solidly rectangular shape and multitude of angular bridges. I particularly like the way the bridges rise up through the sapphire dial.
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A fitting tribute indeed. Diverse views on the Richard Mille page here. Unfortunately there aren't really any other good pictures of it out there; it doesn't seem to have generated much attention (it was released back in 2012 as far as I can tell).

EDIT: I have no idea why the words "Richard Mille" and "sapphire dial" link to women's watches on Amazon. One of the great mysteries of life.
EDIT #2: It appears that the links are dynamic, and therefore might show up in different places and link to different things for you. Just disregard all links except ones I explicitly indicate.
EDIT #3: With my astounding detective skills, I've solved the mystery; the links are sneaked in by a strange technology called "VigLink." The noble intention is to keep the lights on at MoT HQ, so if you think the links might lead to something you're interested in, click away. In the future, though, any links I insert will be explicitly marked as such.
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Urwerk UR-1001

Post by sistem_32 »

Keeping with the pocket watch theme (and the wild contemporary brand theme), the UR-1001 from Urwerk is equally if not even more extraordinary than the RM 020. Urwerk is a German brand founded by Felix Baumgartner (master watchmaker) and Martin Frei (chief designer) in 1997. Their style is characterized by roughly rectangular cases with rather industrial accents, and instead of hands a system of three rotating pointers which display the hours and sweep out 60 minutes each on a scale as they pass by (this description is very poor indeed, but you can see what I mean by the picture). The UR-1001 also, rather ingeniously, uses this system to indicate the date and month. This system is helpfully indicated on the dial as a "revolving satellite calendar." One can only wonder as to the reasoning behind that decision.
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I think the UR-1001 makes a very handsome pocket watch, and its horological merits are self-evident. However, guided by what we can only assume to be some evil spirit, Urwerk decided to also make a cradle for it that turns it into a wristwatch. A more grotesque and pointless wristwatch has never been. I'll spare you the unpleasantness of beholding such an object in this post, but if you're morbidly curious you can google it.
Last edited by sistem_32 on Tue Jul 09, 2019 12:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Urwerk UR-1001

Post by yinzburgher »

sistem_32 wrote: Thu Jan 10, 2019 9:47 pm I think the UR-1001 makes a very handsome pocket watch, and its horological merits are self-evident. However, guided by what we can only assume to be some evil spirit, Urwerk decided to also make a cradle for it that turns it into a wristwatch. A more grotesque and pointless wristwatch has never been. I'll spare you the unpleasantness of beholding such an object in this post, but if you're morbidly curious you can google it.

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Sorry but I had to post a picture of the conversion to a wristwatch. If for no other reason than to show it pairs perfectly well with a suit or sport coat.

Also, they could have easily taken the "easy road" and equipped each rotating wing of the hour satellite with a minute pointer. However they instead chose to incorporate a flyback function for the sole pointer to return to the next wing at the zero minute marker. Because they could.
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Re: Urwerk UR-1001

Post by sistem_32 »

yinzburgher wrote: Fri Jan 11, 2019 1:04 am Also, they could have easily taken the "easy road" and equipped each rotating wing of the hour satellite with a minute pointer. However they instead chose to incorporate a flyback function for the sole pointer to return to the next wing at the zero minute marker. Because they could.
You know, while I realized that there was only one minute pointer, it never occurred to me that it had to be retrograde. I just kind of assumed it...worked. It looks like it's attached to a ring that goes around the entire planetary system (like the ring of the planet?).
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Urwerk UR-111C

Post by sistem_32 »

I feel like I gave Urwerk a bit of a bad rap in my UR-1001 post, and I want to be a bit more positive about them, cause they really are a cool brand. As an example, their UR-111C is a very impressive, not to mention utterly unique, piece.
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This picture showcases the watch's features well. On the top (the red 60) is a digital seconds indicator, apparently marking every five seconds (not jumping). The long horizontally ridged cylinder directly underneath the seconds window is actually the crown. In its default mode it winds the watch, and when you pull out the lever on the right side of the watch it switches to setting the time. The hours and minutes are told on the "front." The far left dial indicates the hour and the right one the minute. The large window in the middle also indicates the minute by means of the green line, which moves from right to left as the cylinder it's printed on rotates. Here's a video from Urwerk's website animating these functions.

The thing I really like about this watch is that it looks properly wearable. It's a reasonable size (for what it is), and it looks fairly comfortable. I think a lot of brands making these "out there" designs tend to overlook the ergonomics of their watches, like Jacob & Co. (or, in fact, Urwerk in the case of the UR-1001).
Last edited by sistem_32 on Tue Jul 09, 2019 12:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Urwerk AMC

Post by sistem_32 »

The Urwerk AMC blends technology from the best of the best of both ends of timekeeping: mechanical and atomic. It was inspired by Breguet''s "sympathique" clocks from the late eighteenth century. These clocks were able to wind and set their corresponding pocket watches when they were interfaced through a cradle on the top of the clock, a very fine achievement indeed for the times. The AMC, however, brings the sympathique clock into the 21st century. The mother clock, instead of a finely ornamented objet d'art, is an industrial piece of milled aluminum weighing 35 kilos (~77 pounds). It is synced with an atomic clock and displays time down to the thousandth of the second on LED displays.
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When the watch is placed in the mother clock it can be wound, set, and regulated. Unfortunately I can't find any good descriptions of the regulation technology, but I know that the watch does use a Swiss lever escapement. Presumably it somehow physically adjusts itself under the direction of the mother clock.

The AMC is simply an astonishing display of technology. I highly, highly recommend you check out this video, which explains and demonstrates all of the functions of the mother clock and provides some very good footage.
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Re: Urwerk AMC

Post by MoT »

sistem_32 wrote: Sat Jan 12, 2019 4:27 pm The Urwerk AMC blends technology from the best of the best of both ends of timekeeping: mechanical and atomic. It was inspired by Breguet''s "sympathique" clocks from the late eighteenth century. These clocks were able to wind and set their corresponding pocket watches when they were interfaced through a cradle on the top of the clock, a very fine achievement indeed for the times. The AMC, however, brings the sympathique clock into the 21st century. The mother clock, instead of a finely ornamented objet d'art, is an industrial piece of milled aluminum weighing 35 kilos (~77 pounds). It is synced with an atomic clock and displays time down to the thousandth of the second on LED displays.
Image
When the watch is placed in the mother clock it can be wound, set, and regulated. Unfortunately I can't find any good descriptions of the regulation technology, but I know that the watch does use a Swiss lever escapement. Presumably it somehow physically adjusts itself under the direction of the mother clock.

The AMC is simply an astonishing display of technology. I highly, highly recommend you check out this video, which explains and demonstrates all of the functions of the mother clock and provides some very good footage.
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Ressence (e-Crown)

Post by sistem_32 »

Ressence has been getting some press lately for their new Type 2, fitted with what they call an "e-Crown," so I thought I'd write about them here. Ressence's main shtick is their "beyond hands" dial design, where the dial itself takes the place of the minutes hand. All the other functions are in subdials and rotate with the main dial. It makes for a very novel aesthetic. With the Type 2 they are continuing their innovation with their e-Crown technology.
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Before we proceed I should make it clear that by "e-Crown" Ressence means the entire system implementing the technology, not just the crown. The e-Crown basically gives your mechanical watch some of the features of a smart watch. It's able to check the watch's time against atomic time and adjust the watch if necessary, update the time when the watch moves into a different time zone, and synchronize the time if the watch hasn't been running for a while. It's powered by solar cells under the dial. Very convenient.

But is it actually a good feature? I find that what I like about the mechanical watch is the fact that it is mechanical. To make it do what it does reliably and precisely is an art. If you wanted the most convenience, you would get some GPS quartz watch that has all the features (and more) of the e-Crown and is much more precise and doesn't need winding. If you wanted high-end mechanical watchmaking, you would buy a watch with an in-house, hand finished movement. The Type 2 tries to be in the latter category, but when compared with its peers it seems like it's using a crutch (two, really, considering its base movement is an ETA). And speaking of its peers, it has some major competition, with its extreme price-tag of $50,000. Unfortunately, it comes off like an overpriced gimmick to me, especially considering more mainstream brands like Frederique Constant already offer "smart" mechanical watches. I'd love to hear your thoughts on the matter though.
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JLC Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel

Post by sistem_32 »

JLC has announced their offering for this year's SIHH: the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel (phew). It's equipped with a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and JLC's specialty, the gyrotourbillon. The gyrotourbillon is a spherical three-axis tourbillon, not unlike a smaller version of Vianney Halter's Deep Space Tourbillon on page one. As I've mentioned before, the two dimensional tourbillon presents a bit of a paradox in a wristwatch (namely, being designed for pocket watches, which were always held vertically), which the gyrotourbillon endeavors to solve. It also looks exceptionally good.
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As I say, the watch also features a perpetual calendar, very well integrated into the dial, and a minute repeater, which, as the watch's name suggests, replicates the chimes of Westminster on its four blued gongs. Interestingly enough, it also has a remontoire, which I discussed in my post about the Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire. Another unusual feature is that the perpetual calendar mechanism is able to be adjusted both forwards and backwards. I don't think I've ever come across another watch with that feature before.

Overall this is one of my favorite haute horlogerie pieces I've seen so far. The horlogerie is beyond a doubt haute, and the looks are exceptional. I would love see one in person.

Edit: forgot to include links to this page describing the features of the watch and this "experience" illustrating the watch's lineage.
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Re: Ressence (e-Crown)

Post by PetWatch »

sistem_32 wrote: Sun Jan 13, 2019 5:53 pm Ressence has been getting some press lately for their new Type 2, fitted with what they call an "e-Crown," so I thought I'd write about them here. Ressence's main shtick is their "beyond hands" dial design, where the dial itself takes the place of the minutes hand. All the other functions are in subdials and rotate with the main dial. It makes for a very novel aesthetic. With the Type 2 they are continuing their innovation with their e-Crown technology.
Image
Before we proceed I should make it clear that by "e-Crown" Ressence means the entire system implementing the technology, not just the crown. The e-Crown basically gives your mechanical watch some of the features of a smart watch. It's able to check the watch's time against atomic time and adjust the watch if necessary, update the time when the watch moves into a different time zone, and synchronize the time if the watch hasn't been running for a while. It's powered by solar cells under the dial. Very convenient.

But is it actually a good feature? I find that what I like about the mechanical watch is the fact that it is mechanical. To make it do what it does reliably and precisely is an art. If you wanted the most convenience, you would get some GPS quartz watch that has all the features (and more) of the e-Crown and is much more precise and doesn't need winding. If you wanted high-end mechanical watchmaking, you would buy a watch with an in-house, hand finished movement. The Type 2 tries to be in the latter category, but when compared with its peers it seems like it's using a crutch (two, really, considering its base movement is an ETA). And speaking of its peers, it has some major competition, with its extreme price-tag of $50,000. Unfortunately, it comes off like an overpriced gimmick to me, especially considering more mainstream brands like Frederique Constant already offer "smart" mechanical watches. I'd love to hear your thoughts on the matter though.
I think that when a new technology comes along offering a significant improvement in some area it's almost inevitable that some models will combine the separate technologies as a hybrid of some type. Why not with haute horology too! There are increasing examples of quartz and auto's integrating some smart watch tech. What I have always found interesting is that some folks who are generally quick to disregard all non mechanical watches have no problem considering and acquiring a Seiko Spring Drive hybrid.

This particular watch is certainly not for haute horology purists and based on the movement likely not for most well informed watch enthusiasts.
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Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious

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On the theme of triple-axis tourbillons, the Jacob & Co. "Twin Turbo Furious" certainly cuts out the most spectacular. Jacob & Co. watches traditionally exhibit the most pretentious, unsubtle, unrefined brashness in the industry, and the Twin Turbo Furious (as you can tell by the name) is no exception. It is equipped with two triple-axis tourbillons which move very rapidly indeed, jumping a few millimeters about every second.
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I suppose the net effect of this mechanism is much the same as that of a continuous motion, and it's certainly more attention-grabbing. Strangely, however, J&C seem to be under the illusion that they have not designed a watch, but a car. Maybe they should have gone into the automotive business. Here's their bizarre presentation video, and here's a short clip from monochrome showing the (rather irregular) movement of the tourbillons.
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